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Vol. CXII · No. 4,822Late Drizzle EditionPrice: One Tablet
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Opinion · Pastry

A Sausage Roll Should Be Bigger Than Your Hand. Anything Smaller Is a Canapé, and I Will Not Be Taking Questions

Blair Atholl's new giant rolls have reopened an old argument. Our columnist settles it.

A Sausage Roll Should Be Bigger Than Your Hand. Anything Smaller Is a Canapé, and I Will Not Be Taking Questions

A proper sausage roll, photographed next to nothing, because nothing compares. Photo: Andy Li, “Bacon & maple sausage roll (cross section) - Bread & Milk, Brighton 2024-12-24”, via Wikimedia Commons, CC0

There is news from Blair Atholl that a new bakery is selling sausage rolls the size of a small dog, and I would like to say, on behalf of everyone over the age of 40: finally.

For too long, this country has been sold the “cocktail sausage roll”. It is two bites of pastry with a rumour of sausage inside. You eat six of them at a buffet and still have to stop for chips on the way home.

A sausage roll is not a decoration. It is a meal. It should require both hands. It should leave flakes on your jumper that you are still finding at teatime. If a seagull sees you with it, the seagull should think twice.

I am told some people cut their sausage rolls in half to share. I have no comment on this, except to say that I hope they are happy, and that they are wrong.

Scientists say the ideal size for a sausage roll is “whatever fits in the paper bag”. I say get a bigger bag. Perthshire has never been afraid of scale. We have the tallest hedge in the world. We can manage a large pastry.

If you disagree, you are welcome to write to me. Please write on the back of a bakery bag, so I know where to go next.

The real story: Blair Atholl bakery (The Courier)

Letters to the Editor

The views expressed are those of the reader, and frankly that's on them.

  1. Hear, hear. If you can eat it in two bites, it’s not a sausage roll, it’s a rumour.

    — Kate F., Perth, 1 November 2026
  2. Small sausage rolls are for parties. I don’t go to parties. Therefore I want a big one.

    — Bob L., Methven, 1 November 2026
  3. As a mother of three boys I say the bigger the better. Less time making them, more time sitting down.

    — Cath M., Scone, 1 November 2026
  4. I disagree. A wee one is perfect with a cup of tea. A big one is a commitment.

    — Raymond P., Letham, 1 November 2026

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